Look, I love my retinol serum. My complexion tolerates vitamin A derivatives well, and I’ve been told by several aestheticians that a daily, lower-strength retinol is key to keeping my textbook combination skin clear and smooth. (Read: Frequent But Gentle Cell Turnover Balances My Oily T-Zone Without Exacerbating My Persistently Dry Cheeks.) I realize there are some people who can’t even pronounce the word “retinol” without turning tomato red or flaky, and for those individuals, I’m more than happy to provide recommendations for retinol alternatives. However, for me, those options don’t cut it. Give me the real stuff!
Fast forward to a trip to Paris, where I tested Yon-Ka’s New Retinol-Like Bi-SerumA line-smoothing, pore-tightening formula that launched in Europe in late February. It has absolutely zero retinol yet has all the benefits – and this is coming from a retinol-alt skeptic! I’ve been using it in place of my usual retinol serum ever since I brought it home (if that tells you anything about its efficacy), and now that it’s officially available statewide, it’s time to introduce everyone to its magic. Whether you’re a retinol beginner, a longtime loyalist, or someone who can’t tolerate the ingredient to any degree, I suggest you keep scrolling.
Formula
I repeat: it is No A retinol serum. (Retinol-resistant individuals, don’t worry!) Rather, it’s a skin-smoothing solution with retinol—Like Active substances that provide the same benefits as vitamin A derivatives without any serious drawbacks (flaking, burning, sun sensitivity, etc.). The two actives in question? biomimetic Microalgae obtained from the south of France and resin extracts from mastic trees in Greece have both been shown to have skin-rejuvenating effects.
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Microalgae, for example, target skin fibroblasts and, remarkably, their chemical structure is almost identical to that of retinoic acid (aka, the retinol ultimately converted in the skin). It’s almost as if the microalgae is wearing a disguise, tricking your skin cells into recognizing it as retinoic acid. As a result, they begin skin cell turnover, collagen production, and all the other benefits associated with traditional retinol. Mastic tree resin also targets your skin cell receptors, especially those involved in retaining retinoic acid. So while the micro-algae are stimulating that process, the mastic tree is making sure those stores stay as strong as possible. Neat, no?
As you can tell, these two actives complement each other quite well – Yon-Ka discovered this after two years of combining compounds derived from different plants. To make it even stronger (and thus more comparable with traditional retinol), the brand decided to separate the two active ingredients into a two-step formula and combine it with gardenia extract (which gives it its berry tint) and pink pepper oil for added antioxidant power. Every time you shake the bottle, you reactivate the serum and make compounds like retinol even more powerful.
application
All I have to say is I’m not A little devotee applying oil on his face. it takes one Very The formula is special to me (read: lightweight and non-greasy) that I can also incorporate into my routine, so I was definitely a little hesitant to try the oil-serum at first — only to be completely blown away by the sensory experience. Yon-Ka’s Retinol-Like Bi-Serum It has a light, watery consistency that doesn’t feel oily in any way, despite having an oily consistency. It absorbs quickly, even if you apply more than the recommended six to eight drops, and dries to a beautiful velvety finish – no greasy residue.
Most oil-serums I’ve tried really emphasize shine, which is fine, but I like the light, almost powdery dryness of this serum more. It’s light enough to layer under dense moisturizers in the winter and hydrating enough to use on its own during the hot, sweaty months. (And because there’s no actual retinol in the formula, you don’t have to worry about photosensitivity. Big win!)
Something worth flagging for those sensitive to any scent: this double serum Naturally fragrant. I generally prefer fragrance-free formulas for my facial skin care, but despite the INCI list of 99.8% natural ingredients, the scent here isn’t overly botanical. It’s light and fresh and has a slight hint of spice, thanks to gardenia extract and pink pepper oil, and it disappears within minutes of finishing my skin-care routine. I actually find myself looking forward to that grounding scent every time I step toward the sink; It serves as an intentional moment of pause before starting or ending my day.
my results
OK, but does a serum like retinol actually work? I replaced it with my regular retinol serum 32 days And I can say with confidence that my complexion looks brighter, tighter and more balanced. As I mentioned above, my skin does best with a steady, slow pace; Whenever I stop, I’m immediately faced with breakouts and dull, flaky skin.
Lo and behold, I haven’t experienced any of these irritations since adding this bi-serum to my routine, which tells me that the formula is, in fact, a 1:1 swap for my beloved retinol. Plus, because it’s so gentle, I don’t have to worry about overusing it or sticking to my nighttime routine only. The brand recommends applying twice daily for best results, and after about a month, I’m already seeing those effects. My annoying forehead lines have softened (something you can see in real time from the application photo below), and my overall tone is even and clear.
Before and after using Retinol-Like Bi-Serum
Will I ever go back to my traditional retinol? Honestly, I’m not sure! My skin generally tolerates retinol well, so I’m not one to look for an option for particularly sensitive skin. That said, I’ve found it works just as well as other OTC ones – if not better. Retinaldehyde-Infused Formulas I’ve Tried, And It does not come with any complications (sensitivity to sun, ingredients to avoid, etc.).
At the moment, you can find me using it throughout the spring and summer without even once thinking about sun sensitivity. However, don’t let this confuse you: sunscreen is still paramount. It’s a good thing I bought some staples from the French pharmacy…
Buy Retinol-Like Bi-Serum
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Retinol-Like Bi-Serum
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SPF 50 Mineral Fluid
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Holy glow. Whenever I use this rosemary infused eye cream my dark circles are practically non-existent. I’m told it’s also a favorite among the celebrity set, often requested on film sets due to its instant tightening effects.
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Yon-Ka’s toner lotion is what initially made me fall in love with this brand. I prefer the extra-moisturizing version, but my combination skin will enjoy this slightly lighter emulsion for spring and summer.
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I recommend having the shiny version as well while you’re at it. A Euro-summer staple.
