Eugenie Trochu is Who What Wear editor in residence known for her transformative work vogue france and that Substack NewsletterWhere she documents and shares her simple approach towards new trends, fashion and style and other ideas. She is also working on her upcoming first book that explores fashion as a site of memory, projection, and reinvention.
I’ve had this jacket for a short time, but it looks like a million other jackets I’ve owned before. And that’s exactly what impressed me. The brown leather blazer isn’t new, it’s a constant for me. A piece that runs through my style and all its variations, without ever really disappearing.
The interesting thing is that it includes everything without it being visible. There’s something 70s about it Ralph Lauren is kind of, ultra-bohemian, somewhere between Woodstock and the plains of Texas. At the same time, there’s something sexier, more intense cuts, very Alaïa in the ’80s, that idea of the body, even under a jacket. And then, of course, a more intellectual, slightly awkward toughness – very Prada under Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada, a mix of seriousness and subtle disruption.
The reassuring thing is that it is present at every level. You can find old-fashioned, already soft, already great people who are already alive – with a history you have not experienced but have adopted without thinking. There are also more fashion-forward versions, perfect, like the one at Ba&sh, that reinterpret the balance between structure and ease. And then there are those that mark a moment — and, let’s be honest, a bank account. I have a Prada that I bought to celebrate one of the most important moments of my life.
For the past month, this is basically all I’ve been wearing. And what I understand is that this jacket works with everything. In the ’70s version, beige flared jeans at the waist, a white T-shirt, cowboy boots, you get a silhouette that seems almost candid, somewhere between Betty Catroux in Yves Saint Laurent and backstage images of Led Zeppelin. A kind of controlled carelessness, where brown leather warms up everything without weighing it down. It’s simple, almost too simple, and that’s why it works.
As soon as you wear something more casual, light blue baggy jeans, white sneakers, short-sleeved striped shirt – the tone changes completely. It became something of a thing in the early 2000s, almost a norm before its time, but with a fashion awareness. The striped shirt could easily seem too dressy, but the suede leather blazer immediately disrupts that reading, like an unsettling element that prevents the silhouette from becoming very proper.
And then there’s the evening version, which I find most interesting because it avoids all the expected code. You can wear simple black kitten heels with a simple black slip dress. Classic. Or another option: a baggy jean, layered with a very simple knit, almost too simple. It’s all about balance. And then in my case, zebra print shoes. A slightly absurd detail that reminds of certain Miu Miu or Saint Laurent silhouettes, where one element deliberately throws off everything. Without this the look will look very smooth. This provides coolness.
